After quite a bit of work I compiled many of the posts along with a bunch of additional information into download-able .pdf style manuals. (If you need Adobe Reader - download it HERE)
The manuals comes complete with:
1) Schematics for all markers.
2) Safety and Handling
3) A Description of how the markers work
4) How to adjust velocity
5) How to set up and adjust the CCM markers for maximum performance.
6) Cleaning and maintenance of all aspects of the marker.
Band: Against Me!
Album:The Eternal Cowboy
Song #1 Rice and Beans
Song #2 T.S.R. (this Sh-t Rules)
Video #2 - Practice - 2008
Song Credits:
Band: Finch
Album: What it is to burn
Track: Three simple words
Video #3 - Practice - 2008
Song Credits:
Band: (Forthcoming)
We are still around and practicing harder than ever. Mad props to Keith from Pumpenstein for filming these videos. Check out his site at http://www.hatefulproductions.com/
On page 58 of the June issue of PB2X Keith’s sexy self is shown wrecking shop, in a semi finals game against Chickun Nuggets where he won a one on one and hung the flag with two seconds to spare. I am glad they got a photo of the game and a picture of Keith not only rocking the new jersey’s but sporting the sponsors stickers.
I am sure he will be signing boobies at a field near you soon.
Pumpenstein traveled to Huntington Beach to battle the best of the pumpers at the NPPL / OSC. The fields, like always were set on the beach and the OSC was relegated to two of the fields on Sunday for all of our prelim, semi’s and finals play.
Despite a limited paint rule and a field designed for 7 man electro play (neither of which are really our style) Pumpensteinwas doing pretty well. We had two close games in the prelims but shrugged those off and came away with narrow victories. We played: Pump and Dump, The Hendshmen (an all star cast put together by Chuck Hendsh), a throw together team of MCB members and others (who played us VERY well), and others that escape my mind right now.
We dropped one game going into the semi’s and were doing pretty well. In the semi’s we played Pumpenstein ball a little more and beat Chickun Nuggets and Turtles (dropping a close game to Blowfish) and advanced to the finals.
The wheels came off in the finals for us as our lack of freestyle play showed. Hitman and Blow fish beat us handily and we could not scrape together a win to save our lives. Despite the poor showing in the finals we thought that 4th out of 28 great teams (really the worlds best pumpers) in a division we have never played in and a style (limited paint) we picked up two months prior was not too bad. We take a lot of pride in our game however and expect a lot out of ourselves. So, I am sure that we will be back at the practice field in the near future to hone our skills and keep striving for that number one spot. That is the Pumpenstein way.
Thanks to Rod from CCM I now have a complete parts kit.
I have way to many parts for the average user however - so I decided to build a list of necessities that should cure all of your CCM needs for your personal markers.
I will break these lists into two categories - the SS25 / Series 6 Prototype list and a second list for the Series 5, Series 5 Basic, and Series 6 markers. Items in italics are not necessary but nice to have.
SS25 / S6P List:
SS25 Valve Body (1)
Valve Body O-Rings (4) N70 015
Valve Plug O-Ring (1)
Spring Detent (For SS25) (1)
Timmy Rubber Detents (For S6P) (2)
Pump Kit O-Rings (2) N70 113
Auto Trigger Screw (1) Grip Frame Screws (2) be sure to get one for the front and one for the rear - they are different.
IVG O Ring (1) N70 013
Main and Valve Springs (1 Each)
Valve Stem Assembly (1)
Valve Stem o-ring (2) N90 007
Bolt Pin O-Ring (1) N90 009
Hammer Nylon Set Screw (2)
Cocking Rod Bumper (4) these are also used in the hammer
Regulator Half O-ring (1) N70 017
Reg Piston O-Ring (2) N70 113
Regulator Poppit O-ring (2) N90 006 If you use a CCM ASA - Reg ASA o-ring (2) N70 007
Tools needed:
Full set of high quality allen keys
Adjustable Wrench
Needle nose pliers
O-Ring pick
Dow 33 Grease (H8tr sauce is nice too)
KC Concepts Blue oil (other high quality oil works well)
1/2 dowel cut at 1 foot length (this is used to push out your valve body if needed)
Blue and Red Loc-Tite
S5 / S5B / S6
Series 5 Valve Body (1)
Valve Body O-Rings (1) N70 011
Spring Detent (For S5, S5B) (1)
Timmy Rubber Detents (For S6P) (2)
Pump Kit O-Rings (for S5) (2) N70 113
Pump Kit O-Rings (For S6) (2) N70 015
Auto Trigger Screw (1) Grip Frame Screws (2) be sure to get one for the front and one for the rear - they are different.
IVG O Ring (1) N70 013
Main and Valve Springs (1 Each)
Valve Stem Assembly (1)
Valve Stem o-ring (2) N90 007
Bolt Pin O-Ring (1) N90 009
Hammer Nylon Set Screw (2)
Cocking Rod Bumper (4) these are also used in the hammer
Regulator Half O-ring (1) N70 017
Reg Piston O-Ring (2) N70 113
Regulator Poppit O-ring (2) N90 006 If you use a CCM ASA - Reg ASA o-ring (2) N70 007
Tools Needed:
Full set of high quality allen keys
‘Cocker Valve Removal Tool
Adjustable Wrench
Needle nose pliers
O-Ring pick
Dow 33 Grease (H8tr sauce is nice too)
KC Concepts Blue oil (other high quality oil works well)
Blue and Red Loc-Tite
Here is how this parts kit might look when done:
I think this is complete - this should have you in good condition for anything that the manual says you need to fix. Call CCM for any of these parts - they have a full supply and I am sure will be more than happy to help you. I have also included the o-rings sizes as I knew them (the information was also gleaned from Rod at CCM) - you should be able to find these at a local parts store.
The Front Cap: A tapped portion that is ramped and forces the ball from the main tube into the chamber. The tap potion accepts a caphead screw (with an ring) that attaches the cap to The Block.
The Block: The block has two holes in the top and two coordinating countersunk holes in the bottom. The bottom portion is chamfered to accept the body of the SS-25 marker. Once the block is attached to the body the cap can be attached to the block. The block is also made so that it can be reversed on the marker in case the owner likes a rock back feed style.
The Tube: The tube along with the block and the cap, to fit 13 balls. It is threaded on both ends to fit into The Block and the End Cap. It is not slotted to allow you to see how much paint is left in the tube. This tube comes in two lengths. 13 balls and 25 balls - the normal 13 ball tube is exeedingly rare - the 25 ball tube is so rare that I have only seen one - the one I own. Bill from CCM was gracious enough to send this one to me.
The End Cap: The end cap is tapped to accept the Tube and it slotted to accept a sock holder (ball retainer). This ball retainer is the standard used on CCI markers as well.
Attaching the CCM Stock Class Feed:
Using a 5/64th Allen key attach the Block (with the tube and end cap if wanted) to the body of the marker. Once attached use the same 5/64th Allen Key to attach the front cap.
Thoughts:
This item is perhaps the simplest portion of the ss25. There is very little to say. It was expensive to machine and perhaps it over complicated and over engineered in its conception. It never caught on on the pump scene too much (mostly because the SS25 was an open class marker by design and was never made to be efficient or run on 12 grams) and so very few of them exist. They are well made and well executed and only perhaps lacking ball slots in making this a perfect piece for the SS25. The only thing that is left is cosmetics - which seem to be in the eye of the beholder.
I am not a huge fan of its looks but it does not offend. I think it looks better than the CCI Stock Class Feed that is often modified to fit the SS25 - but I don’t think it looks great either. Overall, I will not sell this piece for some time to come but I wonder (as I also have a S6P) how much use it will get.
The CCI Stock Class Feed - Modified by Wevo Paintball.
I picked up a Series 6 Prototype from CCM and wanted to put a stock class feed on it. I also own a SS-25 that could have taken the Wevo Feed but I already have a CCM stock class feed for that. So, I ordered a stock class feed from Wevo in dust black in order to have it match the Series 6 Prototype.
Wevo shipped it right away (along with a few other items) and it came well packed and very quickly.
Construction:
There no additions to the make of the CCI Stock class feed. The only differences are modifications done to the stock class feed once it comes to Wevo. Wevo mills a dove tail on the underside of the plastic feedtube that allows it to attach to the sight rail of the SS25. This milling looks good and fits perfectly to the CCM marker.
Wevo also mills a ball slot into the side of the marker that matches the ball slots that come stock on the CCI feed. Very nice. It looks like CCI should make them stock like this.
To make sure the CCI Stock Class feed fits the Spyder hole pattern on the SS25 Wevo drills a second hole in the top of the feed and counter sinks a hole in the bottom of the feed in order for the second screw.
The machining was very well done and the piece came to me ready to mount on my marker. I ended up trimming off the 15 round feed and making a 12 round feed and then slapped in on my Series 6 Prototype. I used the screws that came with the feed and put it on. It worked perfectly and looks great.
There are no real misses on this piece - it worked perfectly and I had no issues using it or mounting it.
Mount - Class Two Soft Anodized (Paintball Marker version has a Delrin Spacer)
Threaded Inserts - Brass
Screws - 8/32 Hex Head
8/32 Hex Key
Cost: 5.95 Plus Shipping
Models Made: CCM makes the Door Gunner in the following calibers: .22, .25, .32, 9mm, 38-357, 40, 10mm, 44 mag, 44 spec, 45 auto, .50, 6mm air soft, and .68 caliber paintball.
I was talking to Bill, the owner of CCM / DPM and he told me about a new / old product that he has. He has made gun mounts for the Firearm industry for many years and now he has modified these mounts for paintball markers. I am not a collector - but I certainly have a few markers I put on the wall between play dates. Bill sent me a few to check out - they came quickly USPS in a nice white box and each mount came in its own baggie.
After unpacking the bag I followed the instructions that came with the kit. The instructions recommended a 1/4 inch pegboard but I already had 3/8th’s, it did not seem to matter.
Installing the Door Gunner:
1) Take a flathead screw driver and screw in the Brass Threaded Inserts flush with the pegboard.
These inserts are thicker than the pegboard and must have pegboard installed with spacers to accommodate this.
2) Press and align the mounts against the board and use the button heads to secure the mount to the board.
3) This firmly affixes the mount to the board. Simply slide on the marker you want to mount and step back.
4) For heavier markers you may have to change the mount to be a little askew to compensate for this. Simply loosen the screws - tip the mount up - and tighten the mount. Most of my markers, however, were simply parallel mounted and had no issues.
I mounted few markers and realized how simple the kit really is. It is a little freaky at first mounting your markers like this, for some reason I wanted to have two affixing points, but after a few days of watching this hang on the board with no issue - I got used to the kit - and really started appreciated the simplicity of the kit.
Testing:
Then I started to beat up this kit and check out what it could handle. I ripped a small portion of peg board - mounted it to my work bench. I put a barrel on this kit and hung a fifteen pound weight from it. This mount did not budge. So - I added a lot of my weight to it. I pushed down on this barrel to the point that the barrel bent - the way I mounted the peg board was tweaked and the pegboard started ripping apart. I would assume I was putting more than 50 pounds of pressure (probably a lot more) on this mount and this barrel and could not find any damage done to the marker mount. In other words, the pegboard will fail before the marker mount will.
The picture below was taken after I had beaten on this mount - it looks bent a little - but the heaviest marker I have (nearly 12 pounds) looks parallel and great with this mount.
Pros:
Easy to mount. Strong. Looks good. Doesn’t mar the barrel or anno. Makes the board look ‘clean’.
Cons:
Cost more than normal peg board mounts. Harder to make adjustments than simple slip on peg board mounts.
Final Thoughts:
After laying out my board and taking advantage of these mounts I am finding that the only problems I have with these mounts is that I want more of them. Bill sent two - and I want to get some more to make my board look cleaner. Some thought is needed to lay out your board simply because they are more difficult to move - but with a little thought - I could see only needing to move these when you make a marker change.
If you have a collection - I would take a look at these mounts to make your board look clean, organized, and hot.
Team Pumpenstein used Speedfeeds on their hoppers at the 2006 NSA Nationals. It seemed the easiest way to reload our hoppers in the format that was used (all reloads had to be done with 10 round tubes). I wrote a review and how - to HERE and thought that I had found the solution to quickly reloading our hoppers. Then we found the Sportshot hopper (which lowered our hopper profiles) modified it and most of the team runs these hoppers now. The problem is that the speedfeed we were using on our previous hoppers on the Sportshot look silly and are unnecessarily large. We took the Speedfeed’s off our hoppers and frankly forgot about it.
Then I saw an ad for a new type of Speedfeed by Mafia Stylz that seemed to be perfect for the Sportshot. It was shorter and seemed to fit the Sportshot - I went to Mafia Stylz website (14.95 plus shipping - paypal’d) and ordered one. In a few days a padded envelope came in the mail with a custom printed label. Inside the package was a printed hang tag with a plastic package attached. The hang tag had directions - the presentation was very professional.
Putting it on the Sport Shot:
Just like my previous article putting a Speed Feed on a SportShot - the collar needed to be modified to fit. I took some measurements and grabbed my Dremel Tool (with fine grit sander barrel) and went to work. A few minutes later, I had it done.
The pictures below shows the before and after. The blue Speed Cap is unmodified and the black one has been modified.
Speed Cap - Front (.300 at the Apex of the crescent in the front - this means taking off .100 in in the front)
Speed Cap - Rear (.360 at the apex of the crescent in the rear - this means taking off .40 in in the rear.)
It really was simple and a little patience makes for an easy modification. Simply cut two crescents out of the cap, one slightly deeper in the front than the one in rear and snap it on.
Preparing the Speed Cap:
The fingers of the Speed Cap come a little stiff. I tested it at this point and the paint from a 80 round tube (Pumpenstein cuts their own length tubes) would not allow the paint to pour in. I sat for just a few minutes and flexed these fingers to loosen them up. I tested another pod, flexed them some more - rinse and repeat. In just a little while I had it right. I could quickly slam a pod into the hopper and all of the paint would pour right in without much an issue (I always had a few balls left - but this seems normal with Speed Feeds - something has to be sacrificed for speed. However, because the paint of a 10 round tube is inserted past the fingers of the Speed Cap - nothing spills.
The Speed Cap sits slightly lower (0.200) than the lid that comes with the Sportshot.
The Speed Cap on the Field:
The first thing I noticed with this Speed Cap is that is maked the hopper louder when you pump and move. Ofcourse, this is to be expected as you are letting the sound escape from the top of the hopper. I didn’t notice this during play, when the adrenaline was pumping, and I don’t think it would ever cost me a game - but it was louder.
I played the entire day with the Speed Cap on my hopper and had no issues. I could reload my hopper without taking my eyes off my target and I could hold my marker on my target and put one ball on him if he looked at me while I was reloading. I simply pulled out a pod, popped the lid, and no-look slammed it on my hopper. A few balls spilled out (if I missed) but almost all of them went into the hopper. I think with a little working in, they would all slide right in with no issue.
About 1/2 way through the day I got hit on my Speed Cap (directly on the front of one of the fingers) - it was about 50 feet away (a blooper over a bunker). I cleaned off the hit and played the rest of the day - without any issue. When I got home I popped off the Speed Cap to do a better cleaning of my marker and hopper when I noticed one of the fingers was broken where the ball had hit it earlier in the day. I remembered seeing a Warranty Section on the Mafia Stylz website and checked it out. It said, I thought, that this was covered so I contacted the maker via e-mail.
The damaged Speed Cap using an Allen Key to show the damage - the Allen Key is propping up the finger - in reality the damage was not noticeable until closely inspected.
He said that he has had a few of these complaints but he feels they are about 3 in 3,000 sales and he would certainly replace the damaged piece at no charge - I simply needed to get back to him with the color I wanted. I e-mailed him the next day to tell him I wanted black and he e-mailed me back and said that he didn’t want to wait so he sent me one of each color - no charge. Three days later all three came. I was VERY pleased with this customer service. I understand that there can be some lemons and that a simple injection molding error can cause weakness in a part.
Day Two:
I played all day at a Pumpenstein practice with three of us running Speed Caps. Beaux and I both took a few hit to our Speed Caps. Beaux took a hit that even flipped the Speed Cap off his hopper. Both us had hits that matched the spot I was hit on the first day at closer range. The Speed Cap held up and worked fine.
I have come to love this thing. I had three times today where I was in close quarters battles or three on ones where the Speed Cap came in very handy. I reloaded quickly and was able to no look fill with my marker up. Seconds mattered at these times and I was happy to have the Speed Cap.
Below is a video by Mafia Stylz showing the Speed Cap in action:
One day I was at Tanks Katy Paintball and I realized I had forgotten my pack. A ref let me borrow his pack. I loved it. I asked where he got it and found that it was a cheapy bought at Gander Mountain. This pack was called a Stranj Extreme pack. It was a 3+2 pack and worked perfectly for my small pods - so I set out to find one.
I found one, pictured above, on e-bay for 13 dollars. I was told that these packs can normally found for about twenty bucks at larger stores. A few weeks later I had it in my hands.
Initial Thoughts:
The pack is of a very similar design than most of the packs of this ilk. It is a weight lifting belt style pack with a rubber portion sewed in the back to prevent the pack from creeping. The pack has two tabs with velcro to tighten the pack and it has three loops to hold pods tight to your back. In addition to these loops are two loops that hold pods in between the three loops for additional pods if you need them.
I use 80 round pods generally and I can slip three of these pods into the pack and leave the two additional loops empty. This pack is not the most durable feeling, but for the price, I can afford to buy three of these packs at the same price I can buy an expensive pack of the same design, the durability didn’t worry me. The pack just seemed made of lighter material in nearly all places. The belt felt thinner, the rubber a little less durable, and so on. It did feel good on my body and the pods felt very tight. A positive side effect of this thinner material was that the pack was light and allowed me to bend and move immediately. I like the feel of this pack.
On the Field:
I played at TKP with the Stranj pack in poor conditions. The ground was sloppy and the field was wet. We had a great practice but this would certainly challenge all of my gear, including my pack. I fell a few times, slid on my pack, and generally put it through its paces. The harness never slipped, never lost a pod, and felt great all day. I really enjoyed the lightness of the pack and the lack of frills. I slid my lanyard squeegee in one of the extra loops and it even held perfectly. Overall I was very pleased with this pack.
After Action Report:
When I got home - I pulled this filthy pack out of my gear back - strapped it back together and tossed it in the washer. This was the second time I have washed this pack and I must say that it has held up wonderfully. Again, I think it will break down faster than more expensive packs, but again, for the price I don’t mind this.
This little cheapy might just become my regular pack. Plus with all the mesh and neato logo’s - I look all agg and stuff.
